Crinan and Kilmartin are off the beaten track – and all the better for it
TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANNABEL ILLINGWORTH
Life is all about the little pleasures and the tiny village of Crinan on the west coast of Scotland has them in spades..
Drawing the curtains back to an epic view, fresh air in your lungs, single-track roads to nowhere, the freshest produce on your plate and the prospect of days spent in a melting pot of history and rugged natural beauty.
This small corner of Argyll, two or three hours north-west of Glasgow, has managed to stay under the radar of developers and flocks of tourists in the warmer months. If it were in the south, the case might be different.
The area around Crinan and Kilmartin is known as the Cradle of the Scots and is filled with ancient castles, even older peat bogs and a stone circle which predates the pyramids in Egypt. The unassuming hill-fort of Dunadd, which has views for miles, is where the first Scottish kings were anointed, and you can still dip your thumb in the timeworn hollow in the rock filled with cool water.
Elsewhere around the valley, rock art dates back 5,000 years, in repetitive shapes of cups and rings. While their symbolism or purpose remains a mystery, the small museum in Kilmartin is a fascinating insight into the past and shouldn’t be missed.
For a spot of adventure, jump on a RIB in Easdale and sail out to the Corryvreckan whirlpool between Jura and Scarba. The return journey is quite literally out of a scene from James Bond – the boat chase in From Russia with Love. If you’re lucky you’ll also spot otters, sea-eagles and harbour porpoises.
Seafari also do a range of other excursions, to lona, Staffa and the puffin colony as well as whale watching in the summer months. A leisurely cycle ride along the Crinan Canal towpath takes you past pristine white-washed cottages and immaculate black wooden locks with views out across Moine Mhor, one of the last remaining raised peat bogs in Britain.
Or drive south to Castle Sween, pausing to admire the view across to Jura, before sampling the local whisky in the authentic cosy bar at the Crinan Hotel.
Days spent by the sea certainly raise the appetite and the best fare around has to be the fresh seafood, although plenty of other options are available. Eating out often means a drive – beware the drink driving limit is lower in Scotland if you have more than a glass of wine.
The Tayvallich Inn has wonderful views across the bay, a well-stocked bar and delicious food day and night. The caf̩ at Kilmartin has healthy options and a charming courtyard if the sun is shining Рa good stop for lunch.
For those venturing a bit further north, the seafood shack on the pier in Oban is legendary – the homemade crab sandwiches are as fresh as you’ll ever try and best enjoyed sitting on the shack’s huge picnic bench gazing out to the islands.
The other star of the show has to be the Crinan Hotel. In its bar, the seafood stew is exquisite and the langoustines from the bay are world class. The service is impeccable and genuine: evidently, those who live here didn’t arrive by chance. The hotel has obviously been around for a while – the old-school décor has so far escaped a minimalist overhaul by developers, although there is doubtless a queue eager to update the faded yet charming family business.
Crinan’s quiet location, incredible views across the water, lighthouse and quaint harbour all make for a restorative escape from the city.
There is more than enough to fill a long weekend – although the best moments are often the quiet ones, just taking it all in. Such tranquility is the perfect antidote to a hectic lifestyle.
And a note for those visiting in spring – don’t miss the gardens open to the public throughout Argyll, dating from the 13th to the 20th century. Rarely will you see a better display of rhododendrons, which Victorian plant collectors brought back from the slopes of the Himalayas. No wonder they are referred to as giorious.
Accommodation
All rooms at the charming Crinan Hotel have spectacular views of the Sound of Jura, and it has a great seafood restaurant too – crinanhotel.com
Boat excursions
Seafari Adventures, Easdale – seafari.co.uk
Further information
Argyll and Inner Hebrides (Footprint, £6.99)
The Rough Guide to Scotland (£15.99)
Scotland (Lonely Planet, £15.99)
