BY BEN WEST
If you’re yearning for a simple yet idyllic, tranquil time away, this rural retreat tucked away in the depths of the Sicilian countryside is just the tonic. Perfectly blending centuries-old architecture and farming traditions with modern design and creature comforts, Susafa is a luxurious boutique hotel set on a centuries-old farm, nestled in the heart of the countryside between the ancient cities of Palermo and Catania.
The farm and its 1,200-acre estate has been owned by the Saeli-Rizzuto family since 1870, handing down their farming culture for five generations. The beautiful rolling unspoilt countryside extends as far as the eye can see at Susafa, a breathtaking patchwork of olive groves, orchards, fields and meadows punctuated with wildflowers.
The tensions of the city melt away the moment you arrive here. The finest materials have been used to create this magical place: Sicilian stone, terracotta, earthenware tiles and wrought iron.
You will want to relax by the pool with its loungers and vine-covered pergola and wander the gorgeous gardens. Many of the plants are labelled, so you’ll undoubtedly beef up on your botanical knowledge.
Manfredi Rizzuto, the current principal owner and proprietor of the property, who is very involved with the day-to-day running of the hotel and estate, took us on a tour of the gardens, the scent of honeysuckle and jasmine in the air. He pointed out pink pepper and almond trees, local apple varieties, pomegranates, pears, apricots and peaches, all growing completely organically.
As we passed butterflies fluttering over a long bank of lavender, herbs from the mint family such as lemon balm and water mint, and a vegetable garden growing beetroot, onions, artichoke, fennel and tomato, he picked a local fruit for us to try, the nespole. Looking a bit like an apricot, sweet yet tangy, I was surprised that such a delicious fruit is hardly available in the UK. Manfredi is aiming to repopulate the local area with nespole.
The core ethos at Susafa, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection, is of sustainability and eco-conscious practices, and the estate’s rewilding initiative promotes biodiversity by focusing on natural cultivation, banning chemical fertilisers and pesticides in favour of organic, regenerative practices.
The shaded courtyards, gardens and terraces offer plenty of options for al-fresco dining and drinks, but many meals are taken in the Gothic-inspired, cathedral-like restaurant which was once the granary. This large stone building with a painted white vaulted ceiling and large fireplace decked out with huge candles in the warmer months makes even the most casual snack a culinary occasion.
Menus are seasonal and regional or local, using mainly home-grown produce, with dishes that are not overly complicated. The wines originate from local grape varieties. There’s a good choice of delicious buffet options at breakfast, lunch is quite laidback, while dinner is a bit more formal, either the set four-course menu or al a carte.
Dishes could include cream of fava beans and peas with fennel and calendula, spaghetti with wild fennel pesto, thistle tartare and whole grain gnocchetti in beans soup with rosemary, slow-cooked chicken leg served with apple caponata and garden herbs, and for dessert fried cassatelle (traditional Sicilian half-moon pastries) with ricotta served on pistachio cream. Needless to say, the freshness of the ingredients produces a heavenly depth of flavour.
The activities here (extra charge) are low-key, but I’m sure that’s what most visitors will want: picnic lunches or sunset aperitifs in the wheat fields, wine and olive oil tasting, or perhaps star and moon gazing. Sicilian cooking classes are on offer, where you can learn to make arancine, panelle, caponata, fresh pasta, bread, cannoli and Sicilian pastries.
Or why not opt for a sailboat ride in the crystal-clear waters of the sea, exploring the beautiful coves and the beach resort of Cefalù, where you can explore the narrow medieval streets and alleys of the historic town centre. Massage treatments are also available, either in-room or under the carob tree outdoors.
In the unlikely event that you wish to venture out of the estate, you can tour the enchanting Madonie villages, perhaps enjoying a lazy lunch at a local trattoria.
The 17 rooms and suites all differ in size and character. Simple, though sleek, with antique pieces set amongst modern furnishings and contemporary artworks, handcrafted items by local artisans, they may have exposed stone or brick walls, handmade, wood stove-baked, terracotta tiles, original brickwork floors and timber-beamed ceilings made from Sicilian chestnut. For a place ideal for a complete digital detox (however, there is wifi) there are no televisions in the rooms.
That helps the passage of time to become less and less apparent in this tranquil haven, and when it is time to leave it will certainly be the very last thing you will want to do.
Further information
Masseria Susafa, Contrada Susafa, 90028 Polizzi Generosa Palermo, Sicily, Italy; +39 338 960 8713 or +39 091 7487477; susafa.com
Nearest airports: Palermo (110km) and Catania (130km)
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