A stroll around some of Blackheath’s lesser-known corners
BY CLAIR HUMPHRIES
Who doesn’t love a stroll across historic Blackheath, whether to fly a kite or witness a stream of ducks halting traffic as they negotiate the zebra crossing to reach the pond by the Princess of Wales pub?
There’s another pond by the Hare and Billet pub too, but did you know that another pond exists, less than a mile away on the fringes of Blackheath Park, also known as the Cator Estate? It boasts not only its fair share of ducks, geese and associated wildlife, but is also home to a classical statue rescued from the old Crystal Palace.
Why not take time to explore this and the roads leading from the historic heath, where you’ll discover architectural gems from the 18th and 19th centuries, cheek by jowl with cutting-edge 20th century design. You’ll be following in the footsteps of notable writers, philosophers and captains of industry who have all left their mark on this area.
Head up Pond Road and you’ll enter the Cator Estate, developed on the site of Wricklemarsh House which was bought by Sir John Cator in the late 18th century. Cator – a wealthy timber merchant – knew a thing or two about building, having already completed an extensive estate around Beckenham Palace. A failed politician, he was nevertheless well-connected and set out to create an exclusive enclave of housing for the upper-middle classes. Hence, grand villas line the road as it ascends towards St Michael and All Angels church, including one which bears a blue plaque marking the home of Nathaniel Hawthorne, American author of The Scarlet Letter.
Nathaniel Hawthorne’s residence in Blackheath was only temporary. During his life, he also co-founded an agricultural farming collective and lived for a while in fellow author Louisa May Alcott’s childhood home.
St Michael and All Angels Church boasts an imposing 172-foot high spire known as ‘the needle of Kent.’ Built in the Gothic revival style, the prominent easterly position of the spire dominates the skyline. However, cross the road into Brooklands Park and you’re a world away from ecclesiastical Gothic architecture. Here, iconic mid-century design can be found in the form of Span housing.
Who – or what – was Span? Says architectural historian Tom Dyckoff: “A developer, working in another time of massive housing need, which built beautifully designed, affordable, sharply contemporary homes.”
The brainchild of Eric Lyons BE and Geoffrey Townsend, these post-war family homes were planned with ‘modern’ living in mind, providing car parking and communal garden space. The properties at Hallgate and its neighbours typify this minimalist style, with large windows aimed at maximising a sense of space and light.
Continue towards Casterbridge Road and you’ll find Brooklands Pond – home of the Crystal Palace statue. One of several ‘liberated’ from the original site, sculptor Rafaelle Monti’s ‘Ganges’ figure now reclines amongst the ivy on a small island in the middle.
A word of warning – the resident ducks here are just as friendly as those on Blackheath and have a similar tendency to hold up passing traffic!
Commissioned in 1854, Monti’s series of river statues have been relocated throughout the UK. Some were auctioned off to private buyers while his Old Father Thames figure now resides at St John’s Lock, Lechlade.
Walk back up Brooklands Road and turn right, into Blackheath Park and the Cator Estate proper. Notable residents have included P&0 founder Richard Bourne and John Stuart Mill (who wrote ‘On Liberty’ whilst living in the area. Mill and his wife Harriet were active in local suffrage organisations and travelled regularly to Europe, where they met with fellow radicals and intellectuals.
Turn left into Morden Road and there’s another blue plaque to spot – this one marking the temporary home of French composer Charles Gounod. Known for his operatic works, Gounod stayed in the house for a few months before settling in central London. The imposing Victorian property originally been built for the publisher Pelham Richardson.
At the bottom of the road you’ll find Morden College, which was designed and built by Sir Christopher Wren and his associate, Edward Strong. Morden College was founded by Sir John Morden in 1695, intended to provide residential care for merchants who were down on their luck.
As you head back onto Blackheath, why not take a detour around the Paragon? This Georgian crescent has housed a school and hotel over the years but since the Second World War (and significant bomb damage) has been largely converted into flats. The Paragon was created by Michael Searles, an architect who designed properties across South London, including sites in Deptford, Kennington and Camberwell.
Perhaps his most recognisable is Gloucester Circus, a similar crescent, located nearby off Royal Hill in Greenwich. You could always extend your route and compare the two – just walk over the heath towards Ranger’s House and it’s downhill from there. To begin, simply follow the direction of those ducks the next time they’re crossing…
Clair Humphries is a Content Partner for Ordnance Survey
Website: clairhumphries.com
Twitter: @clairhumphries
Instagram: clair_humphries
This article appeared in the Winter 2022 issue of Black + Green
