The celebrated chef has created his delicious dishes in a host of settings. Here we find him cooking for a glamorous party in the middle of a heavenly Suffolk wilderness
BY BEN WEST
There was a huge buzz of anticipation as we traipsed up the hill in the thick black darkness towards the flickering lights. There we found ubiquitous Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge, who, with his team, had set up a makeshift kitchen in a clearing in the forest, including a unique 10ft-high cooking cage and a large fire pit.
This was an event organised by The Wilderness Reserve in Suffolk. Guests were treated to such delights as roast chicken and lamb and salt cooked roast potatoes, Scottish langoustines, charcoal and pine mayonnaise, Blythburgh pork belly with crackling on the side, fire baked apple sauce and beef fat sticky toffee pudding and clotted cream.
The magical feast was served under a large bright white marquee with immaculately laid tables of white linen, graced with candlelight and fresh flowers. Afterwards, live music effortlessly got everyone to dance. Guests had previously tried their hand at axe-throwing (thankfully before they had sampled too many wines) and been spellbound by a fire-eater.
I asked Tom what challenges there were cooking outdoors at The Wilderness Reserve, and cooking outdoors in general?
“Cooking at The Wilderness Reserve was incredible, we had the most amazing cuts of meat: whole lamb, pork belly, beef and lobster. But cooking outside has its challenges. It can be really cold, wet and windy, but you have to be prepared for the elements.
“Once your fire is up and running, it’s about timing. You have to make sure the heat from the fire is just right for cooking. It may take a while, so you need to be patient. The other thing to remember is that you probably need more wood than you think, and it must be dry, otherwise you will get excessive smoke billowing from it – and nobody wants that.”
Generally, did he prefer discovering an exciting new recipe of his own, or someone else’s creation?
“Both to be honest. I cook quite a lot with my son, Acey, and we often throw random things together and it turns out much better than expected. But yes, I do love it when I try new dishes from my head chefs. I’m often blown away by how talented they are and what flavour combinations they come up with.”
What special qualities does a chef need to stand out from the crowd, for example to gain Michelin stars or become a tv chef?
“Passion and drive are so important. It’s a really rewarding job but you have to work hard too. I think the best thing is to focus on a great plate of food, every time, maximising flavour using the best ingredients you can get your hands on. The rest will fall into place.”
Tom was particularly worried for his industry during the pandemic, and many restaurants, cafes and bars are still struggling now.
“Hospitality has been hit so hard, but it’s a resilient and creative industry and will bounce back stronger. I am optimistic about the future but we do have to acknowledge that the next few years are still likely to be tough, so we need people to support their local pubs, cafes and restaurants to ensure their survival.”
Does he prefer cooking for others or others cooking for him?
“I much prefer cooking for other people, I relax more.”
It’s interesting that many people think an expensive tasting menu at a highly rated restaurant is exorbitant, but are happy to pay £200 for bad seats miles from the stage at a pop concert. Does Tom think good food is often undervalued, and if so how does he think the unfair perception could be addressed?
“I think good food, good ingredients and great service are all underrated. It’s easy to look at a menu and think it’s really expensive without appreciating everything that happens behind the scenes to make that plate of food happen. Sometimes I’d like to show people all the work that goes into the menu at my two Michelin-starred pub The Hand and Flowers and how talented the team that work there are.”
What advice would he give to aspiring chefs?
“Work really hard, and always treat people really well. The industry is small and hard work gets noticed. Build yourself a solid reputation and good things will follow.”
Lastly, I asked if he hadn’t been a chef, what career would he have liked to have had?
“I’d be a white van driver. Honestly, that’s the truth!”
This article appeared in the Spring 2025 issue of Black + Green Magazine
