Off the beaten track yet one of Africa’s most friendly and beautiful countries
BY BEN WEST
Many peoples’ knowledge of Uganda doesn’t extend much past notorious 1970s dictator Idi Amin, and the dramatic freeing of hostages held by terrorists at Entebbe (see Hilary Bradt’s account of being in Entebbe during the daring raid in 1976).
However, overall, the Uganda of today is one of the friendliest and most peaceful of countries in Africa. Indeed, Entebbe now is a pleasant and peaceful town where you can cycle to the Ugandan Wildlife Sanctuary and its large array of exotic animals and birds, stroll around the nearby century-old botanical gardens amongst the chatter of birdsong and monkeys, browse the colourful market, or hang out at the sleepy bars by Lake Victoria.
Uganda is incredibly beautiful and offers great diversity. There are 10 national parks providing opportunities to see a huge range of wildlife, including mountain gorillas and tree-climbing lions. At Murchison Falls the mighty Nile river squeezes through a narrow gorge before falling more than 140ft, while Kidepo Valley National Park is a true untouched wilderness. Jinja is the adventure capital of Uganda and source of the River Nile.
Uganda lies within the African Great Lakes region, along with Burundi, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania. Notable lakes in Uganda include Lake Victoria, the third largest fresh water lake in the world by area, which also borders Tanzania and Kenya. Here you can lounge on empty powder-white beaches on the Sesse Islands, an archipelago of 84 lush islands. A section of Lake Edward – which for seven years from 1973 was renamed Lake Idi Amin Dada after the Ugandan dictator – forms part of the Queen Elizabeth National Park, as does the whole of Lake George as well as a number of smaller crater lakes.
I’m pretty sure that Lake Mutanda in southwest Uganda, when viewed from the right vantage point on a clear day, is the most stunning landscape I’ve ever seen. A reflection of the majestic Virunga volcanic mountain range in the distance reflects upon the deep blue waters of the lake, and little lush green islands pepper the aquatic expanse. Hardly a building is in sight: this heaven on earth looks almost completely untouched by human hand.
I’ve cycled around some of the lakes in this area – helping test-drive a new lakes cycling tour set up by Matoke Tours, one of Uganda’s most established tour companies – and it is a fantastic way to immerse yourself into the wonders the country has to offer. Cycling brings you right up close to the action, to the community, to the landscapes: you experience so much more than gliding past in a tour bus.
Typically, children wave and shout greetings as you glide past, on dusty dirt tracks with hardly any traffic and sometimes on quiet Tarmac roads. I was challenged to a race by a nine-year-old on an old boneshaker of a bike – and lost. Pretty galling, especially as my bike had ten gears. At one point, after cycling through a village, there sounded like 100 childrens’ voices, shouting greetings as we descended a valley. Where else in the world can you get a welcome like that?
Uganda has accommodation available for every budget, from clean, simple and acceptable lodges and hotels costing from just a few pounds a day, to the most luxurious lodges with gobsmacking landscapes, superb food and the most attentive service.
The supremely relaxing Mihingo Lodge at Lake Mburo National Park has to be one of Uganda’s best places to stay. Luxurious tented rooms are perched at the top of rocky escarpments, overlooking the valley below, with a variety of animals at a watering hole and saltlick in view. It has a spacious, thatched dining area, serving wonderful culinary creations. A steady breeze from Lake Kacheera makes it one of the coolest places in the lodge on a hot day. Activities include horse safais, bush biking, game drives and safaris.
Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo are the only countries containing mountain gorillas today. Only about 1060 remain in the world, and meeting them is widely considered one of the world’s top wildlife experiences. To protect the gorillas and help fund the safeguarding of their future, visits are heavily rationed via permits. Although they are expensive – especially as you are only allowed an hour in their company – I have yet to meet anyone who hasn’t felt that such an incredible, unforgettable experience wasn’t completely worth it.
You start with a trek through rainforest in search of the gorillas, accompanied by wardens and trackers, and an exotic soundscape of tropical bird and animal calls. The search could last just an hour, or take several. Your first sighting of a gorilla, nestled in the lush greenery, takes your breath away. You’ll see a group that could be made up of a huge, silverback male, munching on the nearby vegetation, mothers and playful juveniles swinging from branch to branch. 

It’s simply the best way to end a visit to such a magical country.
Getting there
KLM (klm.com) flies from London Heathrow to Entebbe via Amsterdam several times each week. Other airlines include Uganda Airlines, RwandAir, Swiss, Emirates, British Airways, Ethiopian and Brussels Airlines.
Recommended tour company
Matoke Tours (www.matoketours.com)
Where to stay
Bakiga Lodge, Ruhija (bakigalodge.org) is a very comfortable non-profit facility set up to help people across Kabale access clean water;
Bird Nest (birdnestresort.com) is right on the shores of Lake Bunyonyi;
Mutanda Lake Resort (mutandalakeresort.com) is a charming lodge by Lake Mutanda;
Mihingo Lodge (mihingo-lodge.com) is a blissful option at Mburo National Park;
Boma Hotel, Entebbe (boma.co.ug) is a charming, colonial-style lodge set amongst restful gardens and with a poolside restaurant
When to go
Uganda has a warm climate the year round, although the wettest months tend to be April, May, October and November.
Health
Visit your local GP or travel clinic for any necessary vaccinations. Malaria prophylactics are essential, and a Yellow Fever Certificate is required
Further reading
Bradt Guide to Uganda by Philip Briggs with Andrew Roberts
